Drills to help master your Cruzbike.

Riding a Cruzbike requires a fair amount of coordination between the hands and feet.  For many people, myself included, it takes practice to master that coordination.  Some people are more patient with themselves than others, but I assure you that if you've bought a Cruzbike, your utter patience and practice is a worthwhile investment in a really neat, high performance machine.

The following are some of the drills I give customers (and myself), for refining the coordination required to confidently handle a Cruzbike.

The payoff is that these drills will help make the hand-foot coordination second nature more quickly than if you simply spend your time riding down the bike path.

Guiding Principals and Tips for getting the most out of the drills.

Press with your feet, pull with your hands.  So, you will pull with your right hand while you press with the right foot, then you will pull with the left hand while you press with the left foot.  Got it?  This is as opposed to pressing with the right foot while pressing with the left hand.  I know the "official" Cruzbike instructional videos show an open handed "pressing" technique for beginners; I teach a pulling technique.  We're both right but I find it easier for me to pull against the bars and that's how I teach others.

Concentrate on coordinating a brief moment of “punctuated thrust” between your foot (pressing) and your hand (pulling).  Continue a very tight mental focus on that coordination while doing the drills.  For a while (how long varies by individual), you the rider may need to think a lot about the coordination.  After a while, it will become second nature.

Make everything other than the coordination as easy as possible.  Bring the seat to the most vertical position possible.  This makes it easier to balance.

Wear reasonable shoes.  Don't try and learn with toe clips or sandals.

For all the following, first ride with two hands, then ride one-handed, alternating left and right.  When riding one-handed, switch from left to right hand on the bars after every 10-20 pedal strokes.  The exact number doesn't matter; you simply want to make sure you're working the same amount on both sides.

Bike speed is slow during the drills.  Although your cadence will often be fast, ride at a low comfortable speed for all drills.  In fact, your riding speed under all conditions should always be "comfortable" and under control.  Never, ever ride a Cruzbike (or any bike) at a speed beyond where the coordination feels comfortable and second nature.  Take this advice seriously.  Your welfare depends on it.

While doing the drills, your aim is to be perfectly in control of the steering, always.  This means there is never a moment where the bike is in control of you as opposed to vice versa.

Do the drills both laying back in the seat as well as sitting up straight, with your back off the seat.

The goal is to build your coordination between the motion of your feet and your hands.  Keep pushing at the limits of your coordination by increasing the speed of the cadence from slow to “too fast.”

These sorts of drills are not unique to Cruzbikes.  Every recumbent rider can benefit from them.  For the record, standard frame riders who want to ride well do drills like these as well.



The Drills

- Slalom “S” turns: pick a comfortable slow speed and maintain it.  Make slalom “S” turns beginning with narrow turns and then gradually get wider till the turn is exaggerated.
- Figure eights and double figure eights. Maintain perfect control, pedaling continuously.
- Figure eights: open circles, decrease the radius with each circuit till you can’t go any smaller.
- Cadence/coordination: Begin riding at a moderate cadence, gear up and ride with a very slow cadence.  While maintaining speed, gear down to easier gears, maintaining speed while increasing the speed of your cadence, keep gearing down while increasing cadence till you can no longer maintain the coordination between your hands and feet.
- Create an obstacle course on the ground, whether it’s by choosing marks on the pavement or dropping your hat and gloves in a pattern.  Challenge yourself to ride the course, changing cadence from slow to ultra fast as you ride.  Adjust the course, continually making it more challenging.



Have fun and keep on cruzin',
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

Will improved helmet technology reduce cyclist injuries and deaths?

Can improved technology reduce cyclist injuries and deaths?

The Invisible Bicycle Helmet | Fredrik Gertten from Focus Forward Films on Vimeo.

Thanks to NYC Volae-rider Dan C. for forwarding this video to me.  The invisible airbag helmet is a nice idea.  Would it reduce cyclist deaths and or injuries?  Would it work for recumbent bike* riders?  Is it only comfortable for riders sitting in an upright "Dutch style" riding position?
[*I'm learning to write out the bulky phrase "recumbent bike" in order to enhance my search engine optimization.  Aren't I good?]

I don't have an opinion -- "good" or "not" -- though I agree it's cool.  However, I prefer solutions that involve no technology and little expense for the rider, if possible.  Surely the invisible helmet airbag will be an expensive device, won't it?

The solution is safer streets for everyone -- cyclists, pedestrians and motorized vehicles -- and these will result in fewer cyclist injuries and deaths.  I do not believe the solution is either greater helmet technology or helmet laws (not that the video gets into that).

While I don't want to go too far down the rabbit hole of helmet safety for this blog entry, briefly, statistics show that the larger the number of cyclists, the fewer the number of cyclist deaths and that helmet laws discourage cycling.  Therefore, helmets (and helmet laws) appear to have the effect of increasing the number of cyclist deaths.

In 2005, Dr. Ian Walker of Bath University conducted research which suggests:

"Cyclists who wear protective helmets are more likely to be knocked down by passing vehicles, new research from Bath University suggests. The study found drivers tend to pass closer when overtaking cyclists wearing helmets than those who are bare-headed." [from the BBC]

As it relates to the "invisible helmet" in this video, all this should mean the "invisible helmet" will provide an effective double buffer of safety for the cyclist.  Cars will give more space to the cyclist who is not (apparently) wearing a helmet and, if that cyclist is struck, the airbag helmet will give needed protection.  Fantastic.  But I can't say I want to spend money on -- or deal every time I ride -- with that airbag helmet device.  I suppose plastic and foam helmets are funny looking, but they're also pretty simple, even if they're of limited effectiveness.

Here is more research about bicycle helmets.

The only effective and fair solution is for government to develop street infrastructure that encourages cycling, same as was done for cars.  This would include bikeways -- bike lanes, greenways, separated bike paths -- wider shoulders on roads, reduced and enforced speed limits for cars,


Have fun and look out for the damn cars,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

A customer writes...

I love it when customers write me...


Subject:   Thank you
From:   "M____ A____"
Date:   Wed, November 6, 2013 9:09 pm
To:   "Robert Matson"


Dear Robert,
I wanted to thank you for the time, effort, and patience you extended me during my demo ride.  Minutes after meeting in your bicycle-rich apartment, I was learning the basics of front wheel drive handling.  Riding in the park gave me ample opportunity to try out the speed and handling characteristics of the [Cruzbike] Quest.  Later I had my first remote mechanic FaceTime call as you helped me with some assembly questions.  So despite three back fusions, I am once again speeding down my local bike trail.  Many thanks, Mike Anderson MD, Great Falls, Va



Have fun and stay healthy,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

Removing rear rack from Street Machine Gte

Recently, a fellow posted a question to the HP Velotechnik message board on Yahoo.

- Removing rear rack from Street Machine Gte
- Tue Oct 8, 2013 4:29 am (PDT) . Posted by: "L C____"
- I would like to remove the rear rack from my recently acquired Street
- Machine and I notice that 2 of the mounting bolts appear to go right into
- the pivot point of the rear suspension.
- Is there a special trick to doing this?
- TIA.
- L___

You can just remove the bolts, then remove the rack, and then replace the bolts.  However, when done properly, the long bolts that originally held the rack are replaced with a pair of 20mm button head bolts.

Getting the new bolts back in involves a fair amount of fiddling.  I'd try finding replacement bolts at your hardware store.  Be sure to grease the new bolts before replacing them to prevent them from seizing and becoming impossible to remove in the future.  The torque for the swing arm bolts is 17-19 nm when using HP Velotechnik's bolts.

If you want to ride with only an underseat rack, and no rear rack, you'll need to use the long bolts to hold the rack with spacers to take up the space otherwise used by the mounts for the rear rack.  The spacers go on the bolt, between the swing arm hinge and the mounting point on the rack.  HPV provides spacers, for the official solution, or you can find something on your own that is strong.

Have fun and stay healthy,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

Energy Pellets, no cook

Here is this Fall's recipe for Energy Pellets (no cook)

1/2 C(up) almond butter
1 C peanut butter, salted
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 C corn syrup
1/2 C ground flaxseeds
1 T(ablespoon) chia seeds
1 C Grape Nuts (or similar coarse multi grain ready to eat cereal)
1/2 C rolled oats (5-min. quick oats)
Fleur de sel (sea salt) to taste
1/2 C raisins
1/2 C chocolate M and Ms or their likeness (I use Sunspire brand.)

Use a highly conductive non-stick sauce pan, for best results.


Thoroughly combine nut butters, cinnamon and corn syrup in sauce pan over medium-low flame.

Stir these evenly into the goop mixture, a bit at a time:
Flax and chia seeds
Grape Nuts
Rolled oats
Raisins

Let mixture cool a bit so the M and Ms don't melt when you add them.

Sprinkle M and Ms around the mixture and then stir them in as best you can.

Mold mixture into balls with freshly washed hands (I'm just saying).
Sprinkle fleur de sel over balls to taste.

Put into resealable plastic containers and then into fridge for 8 hrs.

Store in fridge.

To take them on a ride, I put them into plastic zipper-closure bags.

Food is love, share it,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

A customer writes from southeast Asia...

Hi Robert,

Just wanted to drop you a line to say hello. I hope all is well with you and your 2013 season for recumbents ended well.

B--- and I are currently traveling through SE Asia on motorcycles. We are in central Laos right now heading south towards Cambodia. We're expecting to be back in NYC at the end of the year as B--- has teaching obligations for the first few months of 2014.

I'm thinking of continuing to take time off in early 2014 and have been considering a solo ride of the ACA Southern Tier route east to west in Feb/Mar 2014. Know anyone who has ridden the Southern Tier E to W? If I do this I'll sure be glad I kept the grasshopper fx!

Best,
A---

# # #

Again, I think I have the world's coolest customers.


Have fun and stay healthy,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

Important! Help me raise $250,000 to increase access to recumbent bikes in New York Metro

Vote here. It's fast and free.
https://www.missionmainstreetgrants.com/business/detail/60386

Voting ends Nov. 15 at midnight.

I need your help, guys.  And I need it now.  Please.  Voting ends Nov. 15 at midnight.  I still need more votes.

I realize recumbent bike riders in the NY Metro area wish we had a larger dealership here.  I feel the same way.  And I'd like you to know I keep hammering away at it.

Some of you know the business and you know how incredibly hard it is.  That's especially true in a high-cost region like NY Metro where we pay 3x what others pay for real estate and 2x more for utilities.  Those of you who know me personally know how I knock myself out to grow the business, every day.

At last weekend's Recumbent Cycle Convention, dealers and manufacturers from all over the country, pretty much to a man, expressed overwhelming support for what I'm doing, including offers to help if they can, etc.  The level of kindness was really touching.  And it appears I'm on pretty much a similar path to everyone else, doing similar things.  (It also turns out that a few manufacturers consider me their "best" dealer; that felt good.)

None of you will be shocked to hear the main obstacle to growing New York City Recumbent Supply is money.  So, I've applied for a huge competitive grant from Chase Bank.  If I get it -- if we get it -- it'll be massive and will dramatically increase access to recumbent bikes in our region.

All I need is your vote.  It's fast and free.
To be considered for the first round of this competitive grant process, I need your support: your vote, in fact.  And the votes of your friends.

The link is below.  When you go to the site, Chase is going to ask for Facebook stuff.  They say they don't use or retain the info.  I assume it helps prevent voter fraud.  But I don't know.  I don't control it.  Unfortunately, some people have found this off-putting.  Please don't be put off.

Vote here:
https://www.missionmainstreetgrants.com/business/detail/60386


Thanks to each of you for helping grow the bent-riding community in Greater NY.


All best,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

Recumbent Cycle Convention [Conventional? Not.]

I just returned to New York from the Recumbent Cycle Con (RCC) in Los Angeles. A superb experience and a fun trip. Loved the light, ocean, and mountains. Too bad about all the driving, highways, and traffic. I've heard people wonder how New Yorkers get by without cars. But how do Angelenos get by with them? I felt I couldn't easily get anywhere!

Out with the Cruzbike family on our semi-daily daybreak Death March and chat, complete with great views and glorious sunshine. Robert on left. Tom in yellow. Abram with hat. Maria in green. Jeff in blue. Photo copyr. 2013 R Matson

But RCC was a blast. I continue to believe that the best things about bikes (and trikes) are the people you meet as a result of being a cyclist, and the experiences you have with those people, whether it's shooting the breeze with a fellow cyclist at a traffic light, or going on a group trip, or racing, or advocating for cyclists' rights, or helping a fellow cyclist you find sidelined along the road, or attending a bike show, or any of those other experiences that result from being an engaged member of the world's cycling community.

Robert demonstrates a brief track stand on a Mirage Nomad, a shaft-drive 'bent.
Glad to have had the chance to ride it. Photo copyr. 2013 R Matson

As for the machines themselves, bikes are cool, some more than others, but they're just bikes; they're a means to an end, not the end-all and be-all. They're a lever, a tool for amplifying what your mind and body want to do and could perhaps do anyway. Without the machine, you could have similar life experiences, you simply wouldn't go as fast, or as far, or, maybe, get into as much trouble. So, the potentially coolest thing about a bike show, for me, is the people; next, it's the experience I might have with them; thirdly, it's seeing what people are thinking about and the problems they're trying to solve with human powered equipment -- the bikes/trikes/drivetrains/chains/headsets, etc. Maybe it's because I'm less a gear-head and more a traveler, but what excites me about a great machine is not the engineering; it's the experiences a machine could open up for me and, then, whether that machine will get me safely to the other side. I feel similarly when it comes to dealing bikes. First and foremost it's about people and the experiences a 2- or 3-wheeled human powered tool make available to them, whether during the sales process, or years after when they're pedaling through Arthur's Pass (South Island, New Zealand).

At RCC, I met many people who, till now, I knew only by name, e-ml, phone or photo. People turned out to be pretty much as I anticipated: people I thought would be super, turned out to be super. I had wonderful conversations with the people from Cruzbike and HP Velotechnik and I'm going to continue what I'm doing with them. In their own segments they are the leaders for good reasons. Had good conversations with several others, too many to name. I met Catherine and Hubert van Ham of Radical Design, the recumbent pannier manufacturers, who didn't have a booth but attended the show as visitors; really nice people. Azub, Greenspeed, Ice, and Hase remain impressive. I was also pleased to meet the other dealers in my "neighborhood."

Trisled Rotovelo, brought in by Nanda Holz of SpinCyclz. Photo copyr. 2013 R Matson

Several discoveries in terms of bikes and trikes. Yes, lots of trikes were shown as manufacturers try and respond to the demand for T's. The average number of wheels per bike over the entire show was, I don't know, 2.9 or so; less cleverly, more clearly said: trike showings dominated though maybe not in terms of speed. A few manf's. had prototypes of clever trikes, folding and otherwise, and it'll be interesting to see what they present as production models. A few new bikes, some of which I may bring in. I won't be too specific right now so as not to disappoint people. Also, again, when it comes to recommending machines to customers, I'm highly concerned about reliability and quality and, with new machines that lack a track record, can we be sure to get that?

Cruzbike Morning Death March, group photo. Photo copyr. 2013 R Matson

Cruzbikes won the "slow-riding" as well as the "turning radius" contests.  No surprise.  But also the jockey Abram (photo of Abram) was, I heard, a gymnast in the past, so it might have been more than just "about the bike."

I realize readers of this blog might like to hear my analysis of what I saw and liked or otherwise, but since I'll be making business decisions based on my ideas, I'll keep them to myself.  Meanwhile, event organizer extraordinaire Charles (Chuck) Coyne of Recumbent and Tandem Rider Magazine was there, along with Chris Malloy and Travis Prebble of Recumbent Journal, and Bryan Ball of BentRider On-line, and I'm sure we can depend on them to write round-ups.


Recumbent Journal has kindly posted photos on Flickr, here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/recumbentjournal/sets/72157637250627184/with/10640849036/


Here are a few notes that I'll share:

- Nanda Holz of Spin Cyclz (CA) imported a couple dozen of the Trisled Rotovelo and had one at the show.  Good ride and nice idea for an inexpensive velomobile.  Good enough in every way with one aspect I thought was non-ideal: the pedals rotate rather close to the pavement so I personally needed to adjust foot position to avoid heel strike.  I don't believe I personally, could ride it with clipless pedals or toe clips; someone with small feet might be fine.  I pedaled near my instep with platform pedals, which is okay, but not my normal pedaling position.  I'd recommend using heel straps with it.  Lots of storage capacity inside.  Call me if you want one.

- HP Velotechnik was, as expected, extremely polished and professional and was possibly the busiest booth.  They had their usual top of the line bikes/trikes and the new dirt trike.  They showed their new electric/pedelec system which is, in several important ways, an improvement over the Bionix solution.  Call me if you want more info., etc.  (Robert: T: 646-233-1219.)

- Cruzbike was possibly the darling of the show and Maria Parker gave one of the best speeches I've ever heard at the industry dinner.  Entitled "Doing something hard," it was ostensibly about her experience during RAAM, but was equally a TED-type talk about how to...do something incredibly hard.  For the bikes themselves, only a very few people seemed to have trouble "getting" the Cruzbikes.  I think we (the dealers) have gotten better at teaching people how to ride them.  For a limited time, there is a slight discount on the 20" folding model.  Call me if you want more info., etc.  (Robert: T: 646-233-1219.)

- Prototypes of several new folding trikes and bikes were shown in addition to the usual suspects who have production models.  There's a long way between prototype and production model, but it was exciting to see people working away at this challenge.  I'll keep folding machines on hand and will increase what I carry if and when the new ones pass the various quality tests and go into production.

- The Mirage Nomad shaft drive prototype was there.  Nice idea and the ride quality is as good as similar designs.

- TerraCycle has a full length fabric fairing/sock.  They are again making their tailsocks but now they are also offering a full length sock that attaches with velcro to their front fairings.  So, if your bent can accept TC's LARGE/FULL front fairing, and has the mounting points for the TC tail sock, you can inexpensively make a fully faired ride.  Head opening at the top and totally open on the bottom.  I'm a Terracycle dealer if you want more info., etc.

- Lightfoot showed several of their HUGE fat wheel bikes and their ATV-like Quad.  They use Surly Large Marge rims/tires.  Fun to ride.

Next Recumbent Cycle Con. slated for Sept. 27-28, 2014, in Chicago!

I arrived in Los Angeles and went straight to Manhattan Beach for a swim.
While there, I took a photo of this guy who looks a lot like me. Photo copyr. 2013 R Matson

Have fun and stay healthy,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

Street Machines hobnob on Bear Mountain on a perfect fall day.

Another beautiful day on Bear Mountain in New York. Two Street Machines, and two street machines, and a lot of long hills. Photo copyr. 2013 R Matson

Last weekend, a friend and I went for a two-day ride around Harriman State Park on our Street Machine Gtes.  The weather was spectacular, if cold and breezy, and the fall foliage was on the early side of peak.  One of us went off into the weeds while trying unsuccessfully to make a tight high speed turn, the other fell into a lake.  In both cases, don't ask why.  Or how.  But one thing is clear: we had fun.

Go enjoy a view,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

Azub Origami is in the house.

The "Origami," made by Azub in the Czech Republic.

This pretty folding recumbent bike arrived the other week.  This is an Azub Origami.

Kitted out with SON dynamo hub and full light system with Busch and Mueller Lumotec Lyt headlight and the ever-reliable Bumm Toplight Plus at the rear, fenders, shock-absorbing Schwalbe Big Apple tires, and a rear rack welded into the frame, it begins to approach a reasonable answer to the Brompton for the recumbent bike world.  I'm not sure anything comes close to a Brompton in terms of sheer magic of fold, small size and ride quality, but designers keep taking swipes at the top of the pole, always getting closer.  For recumbents, inherently long and heavy, it's a worthy challenge to make a folder that is just as fun to ride as a non-folding bent.  The Origami folds pretty easily, the seat can remain attached, there's nothing too weird or complicated about it, you (I) can pick it up with one hand once it's folded.  It weighs about 36 lbs with the extras shown here which, in fact, is only about 6 lbs. heavier than my 30 lbs. Brompton with all the same accessories, so we're well within striking range.  I think a dyed-in-the-lycra weight weenie -- I originally mistakenly wrote died-in-the-lycra, which is awfully friggin' bleak but, frankly, barely registers as a slip for the cycling realist -- could get it down to 30 lbs. by throwing money at the problem.  This is the Shimano Alivio 8-spd drivetrain, so it's not as if we tried to shave grams anywhere.  Bike payload is 100kg (220 lbs).

Interesting note: the red paint is matte as opposed to gloss.  That was a nice surprise.  Matte colors are less common on bikes in the USA than gloss colors and, IMHO, lend a refined appearance.  But those attached to gloss will need to be aware of this.

Ride Quality
When you have a small-wheeled bike, you lose the stability created by the gyroscopes of larger wheels.  I think stability is a matter of perception, assuming we have a professional quality bike and strong legs, and riders will only notice greater or lesser stability at extremely low speeds, like on steep hill climbs or making slow tight turns on city streets.  Azub has done something interesting as concerns this quality.  By stretching out the wheel base of a small wheeled bike, they have counteracted somewhat the "instability" of small wheels.  Of course, when you stretch out the wheelbase, you lose something in turning radius -- it gets larger -- and in compactness -- it gets longer -- but I really like this company's creativity, both in this solution and in other places.  Since the Origami has above-seat steering and a wheel that turns backwards should you wish, you can make your extra sharp 91 degree turns.  Another note about this "stability" issue.  I tend to look askance at claims that a given bike is "unstable."  Instability problems may be problems of rider balance, skill and core strength in combination with the forces that create instability, like speed, payload, center of gravity, absence of wheels....  Once one masters a given machine, assuming it's a straight frame, round wheels, and an appropriate center of gravity, instability (should) become less an issue.  Is it the bike that's unstable, or is it the rider?  A unicycle is unstable, but you know what?

Wheelbase comparison:
Azub Origami: 122 cm (48")
HP Velotechnik Grasshopper fx: 109 cm (43")
The Grasshopper has that sporty, nimble feel for which HP Velotechnik's are famous, but it also has a tiny bit more of a learning curve, compared to the Origami.  The Origami has a touch of that long bowsprit feeling when making tight turns and navigating within buildings, but you get used to it.

Something cool:
The Origami's seat can be reclined from 50 to 20(!) degrees.  That is unusual.  The result is a machine that can make the upright-sitting crowd happy, but also those riders who want a seriously aero machine can get that too.  I can enjoy an aero bike, so I was pretty happy to discover how far I could recline the seat.  Also, the above seat bars are more an aero praying mantis style than a Harley chopper style.  On both points, you might (or might not) lose something in comfort to gain something in speed, but I thought it was a good move.  It helps confirm Azub's character as a manufacturer of sporty, performance-oriented bents as opposed to sofa-cycles.  They're still working in a crowded marketplace, but they are offering something good that is a little different than the others, making them well worth checking out.

Another note about the seat and the fit.
Azub uses both a sliding boom and a seat slider on the frame.  Fine, it's easy enough to find that perfect adjustment of seat angle and leg length with any decent boom and seat angle adjustment system, but what is really noteworthy is that you can also adjust the location of your center of gravity on the bike, fore and aft, between the wheels.  That's pretty critical with a performance-oriented bent that allows a severe seat recline.  Otherwise, as you recline the seat, you end up moving your CoG over the rear wheels, which causes a dangerously lightened front wheel.  So, the upright-sitting crowd can to dial in their CoG same as the reclined crowd.  Excellent design work.


Stay reclined, stay healthy,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

Recumbent Cycle-Con Trade Show & Convention, November 1 - 3, 2013

Going.

http://recumbentcyclecon.blogspot.com/


Gone:
http://blog.nycrecumbentsupply.com/2013/11/recumbent-cycle-conventional-not.html

Have fun and stay healthy,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

Street Machine Gte: is factory gearing low enough?

Me (Robert) at the end of the road at the top of Whiteface Mtn. with my Street Machine Gte. The factory gearing (and my legs) got me and my luggage there okay.

On the Yahoo Group for HP Velotechnik owners, there has been an interesting sharing of perspectives on the standard gearing for the HP Velotechnik Street Machine Gte.

I share it here, edited to the essential parts about gearing:


From original poster L Campbell:

I would appreciate suggestions as to how long an axle should be for a triple and also, does the factory suggest any minimum / maximum sizes for the chainrings?



Zach Kaplan of Zach Kaplan Cycles wrote in:

The stock crankset on the Street Machine has 52-42-30 rings. They have used various brands of cranksets and spindle lengths over the years. To get lower gearing, I have replaced the stock 30T inner rings with 26T or 24T rings. I have also set up Street Machines with MTB cranksets with 44-32-22 rings which I think is a better gear range for a bike designed for loaded touring.

Writer Ed Walkling seemed to have a similar view:

When I get a new (secondhand) GT the first thing I do is change the crankset. I find the standard chainrings much too large for full camping gear touring or pulling my daughter in the trailer.
I run 22, 32, 44 chainrings as said before and also use a large 36 tooth cassette giving me a very low gear. This allows me to pull the trailer up a steep gravely hill we use often on the way back from our local town.

The axle length on your bottom bracket will be determined by the crankset you choose to install. Only the shell diameter and width is predetermined by the frame. As you have a deralieur post you should be fine fitting a triple.



My (Robert's) own view was the following.  I tried to provide context so others may translate my experience to their own terrain and habits.

I'd like to contribute to the range of perspectives about the SMGte's factory gearing since I have a different experience.

I ride an SMGte for solo, self-supported, loaded touring, carrying all gear for shelter, cooking, repairs and travel.  My last tour, this past July, was a 12-day, 750-mile rainy (cycling) trip through the Adirondacks in New York State with a brief dog-leg through Vermont.  I basically followed the Adventure Cycling Association's "Adirondacks Loop."  The trip included constant and often steep elevation changes on both improved and "unimproved" roads: paved, dirt, farm, trail, mud, broken asphalt, etc.

The steepest, longest incline during the trip was up Whiteface Mtn., the ski mountain used during the two Lake Placid Winter Olympics.  I rode up with full panniers, which, in addition, were particularly heavy due to my having been caught in daily thunderstorms without a chance to dry my gear.  From the direction I was riding, it was a 10-mile climb, in all, with long steep grades, often between 8-10% during the last five miles, and a somewhat rough winter-damaged asphalt surface.

This is the elevation profile for the Whiteface Mtn. section of the Adventure Cycling Association's Adirondacks Loop.

I rode with HPV's factory-supplied Shimano XT drivetrain with their Truvativ Tuoro crankset and their 155 mm (short) crank arms.  It was okay.  I believe the Elita crankset yields more power output and 170 mm crankarms would give a lower gearing, but I didn't leave the trip believing I needed yet lower gears.

The RPMs of my preferred cadence may be slower than those who prefer lower, mountain bike gearing; I, personally, seem to have better slow twitch than fast twitch leg muscles.  Between me and others, there may also be differences in the weight of the payload, rider plus luggage, as well as strength.

It's important to remember that the cadence speed of one rider may be very different from that of another and that cadence will hugely effect the optimal choice of gearing.  A rider with a high cadence may benefit from mountain bike gearing for loaded touring.  But a rider with a low cadence may not, and may really regret losing the higher "cruising" gears, as the chain rings are all reduced in size.

It is also impossible to predict the future.  In this case, I mean that you don't know how you'll pedal after you become an experienced rider on a specific bike.  When you're new to a bike, you may pedal with one cadence, but as you get to know the bike and grow stronger, you may develop a preference for a different cadence.  Also, on a new bike, you might begin with one seat angle or boom length (x-seam length) or cleat position or leg extension, and that may lead you to prefer one cadence.  As you become stronger and more experienced, if you're like many other people, you will tweak these things and those tweaks may effect cadence.  Also, in my own case, I find that the time I spend in the saddle changes my preferred cadence; on long trips and long days, I seem to prefer a slow cadence.  On short trips and day rides I seem be happy with a faster cadence.  Maybe I don't know what I'm doing; maybe a great coach would tune my cadence and it'd be better if I pedaled the same way always.

I continue to believe it's fine and maybe best to start with the factory's gearing, and use that to get to know the bike and yourself as a rider of that bike.  As you develop your strength and technique on a particular frame, you'll come across instances where the gearing wasn't quite what you needed -- not high enough, not low enough, not close enough, not wide enough.  Then, based on personal experience, you can experiment with your set-up and hone in on your optimal gearing.

All that said, there is indeed one good shortcut to slowly and surely putting in the miles and experimenting as you ride.  It's called "intensely putting in miles and experimenting as you ride."



Have fun and -- why not:? -- try something new,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

Recommended chain lubricants

For the chains on HP Velotechnik and Azub bikes:
- T9 Boeshield.  This is a good all weather dry lube.  HP Velotechnik chain tubes have teflon particles in the tubes, so they are very low friction.  Our concern is not to introduce gunk into the chain tubes.  T9 is the product for that.

Cruzbikes.
Since CB's have a traditional chain, with no tube, you can choose whatever lube you prefer.  These are my favorites:
- T9 Boeshield (for a dry lube)
- No. 5 Chain-L, Huile de Chaine (for a tenacious wet lube)

There are a few other products I sometimes use. They're the usual suspects: Finish Line, White Lightning, Phil's Tenacious, etc.  And I have a few other "secret" lubes that I experiment with, but, sorry, they're secret.

One not-so-secret lube is graphite dust applied liberally to the outside of the chain.  Very old school, dirty as heck, and highly effective.

What you DON'T want to use on your chain:
- WD40
- Fluids that penetrate and remove grease from the chain (grease is good).

To clean dirt off your chain, simply use a clean dry dust-free rag to wipe off the dirt.

Before all else, I should probably say, you need to start with a clean high quality chain.  You can't turn a dirty old chain into a good and efficient chain.  Chains are cheap.  So are cassettes and chain rings.  Start fresh.

High quality chains, such as those from Shimano, KMC and SRAM, have been assembled in the factory with industrial grade lubricants.  So, that job has been done for you, better than most people could ever do it themselves.  Generally, you just want to protect that industrial grade lubricant and keep dirt particles from getting inside the chain (inside the chain's bushings).  Dirt on the inside of the chain's bushings causes the greatest amount of friction and wear.

Corrosion on the outside (and inside) of the chain is something you want to avoid, by keeping your chain lubed.  If you have chain tubes on your bike, you'll want to dry off your chain between rain storms because moisture inside the chain tubes will cause corrosion on the outside of the chain.

Dirt on the outside isn't a huge concern in terms of performance and wear.  For one thing, you can't do much about it, so there's little point in worrying about it.  There may need to be asterisks and foot notes here (you need a clean chain before applying lube; dirt on the outside may be desirable, it actually may prevent dirt from getting inside the bushings; dirt on the outside will wear your chain rings and cassette, but you can't stop parts wearing out, same as you can't stop entropy; dirt on the outside of a chain may mask corrosion on the outside which you definitely do not want; the best thing of all for long term chain and "cog" life is to have a bike with an enclosed drive train, e.g., Flevobike's Green Machine).

Are you keeping all this straight?  The main thing to remember is this: start fresh, apply T9.

Your mechanic may have a few chain maintenance secrets too.  There's no reason not to go with whatever they suggest.

Have fun and stay healthy,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

"Granny Gear" banned from shop as sexist terminology.

Here at New York City Recumbent Supply we have officially banned the phrase "granny gear" to describe that single easiest, hill-climbing gear on a bicycle.  It's sexist terminology and has no place in this shop.  Also, I'm among many recumbent cyclists who frequently find themselves using that gear on steep hills; so what does that make me?  Yes, a granny.

So, from now on, that single easiest, hill-climbing gear on a bike shall be known as the "mountain gear."  That makes me, and everyone else who uses that lowest gear, a mountaineer.  And I like that better.

Have fun and stay young forever,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

Custom Graphite-Black Street Machine Gte

About one-third of the HP Velotechniks I order are in custom colors.  Here's one of the recent ones, in graphite-black.  Fitted with a black Rohloff speed hub 500/14 and DT Swiss Air Shock.  Nice bike, as the kids say.

In the bright sun. You get a good view in this photo of the efficient chain line on a SMGte

Many people wonder how the SMGte looks without the front derailer post. Shown here. The small black tube near the front is HPV's computer mount. This mount isn't strong enough to support a typical smart phone, but it's good for a Cateye-like odometer.

The Rohloff Speedhub, shown here, is a superb and sophisticated piece of equipment. Designed for trouble-free operation and strongly recommended for long distance touring, it comes with a fairly extensive manual. You wouldn't think you'd need to, but do read the manual before your first ride so you understand the finer points of operating the hub.

Have fun and stay healthy,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

Cruzbike Silvio 2.0: spooth and 20 MPIB overall.

Smooth speed.  That'd be the two-word description of the ride quality of the 2013 Silvio 2.0.  The one-word description would be, I guess, spooth.

I have a Silvio 2.0 in the shop as a demo and I took time at lunch to ride 4 loops (16 miles) in a continuing effort to understand the current model a bit better.  This ride: avg. apx. 21 mph., high: 32 mph, low: 12 mph, 16 mpib, 1 drdh (drafting roadie dropped on hill).

The bike isn't set up with an odometer*, but, given I know the distance of the course, I can say with some accuracy that I've put in about 40 miles on this version so far and, though I can handle it better now than I did at first, it's not yet second nature.  Just for context, people should realize than when I say second nature I mean really truly second nature -- riding without having to think at all about coordination.  I ride a Cruzbike (Sofrider) every day for commuting, shopping, etc. so, as a general thing, the Cruzbike handling is pretty much second nature to me.  The Silvio 2.0 is forcing me to develop higher level skills.  But that's always been true of the Silvios; you must have higher level Cruz skills before you can safely handle any of their bikes at high speed. The Silvio, like any highly aero bent, is inherently fast when energy is input.  (*I rode with the Bike Brain app turned on so I'd know my speeds.)

The first time I rode the S 2.0, several weeks ago, I was focused on understanding the handling, otherwise known as "just trying to hold on" and figuring out the boom length and where to put my hands.  It is so much more reclined than the 1.0/1.5 model, that it's really a new bike.  It deserves a new name, not simply a new numeral.  The Goldio; the I-don't-know-ee-oh.  Yes, it's a lot more aero, and significantly faster on the flats and downs due to that, but also, due to my head angle (I mean skull, not head tube), I need to develop new techniques for watching the road, looking for obstacles and people, broken pavement and trash, looking behind me, etc.  At this point, my technique is to lift my head whenever I'm in an unpredictable area due to a rough road or crazy kids or murderous texting drivers.  Around unpredictable traffic, I'll pedal sitting fully up.

While riding, I also get more wind up my sunglasses so I've had to start wearing shades that are closer to my cheeks (facial).  Hmm.  I realize as I write this that I also seem to get a drier throat on the S 2.0 compared to the S 1.5 and other less aero bikes. I think the wind is hitting the roof of my mouth in a way that dries out my mouth; I don't think I'm getting more wind up my nose, but who knows.  Maybe my mouth is more open as a ride, maybe due to the highly aero position when using the headrest.  Maybe because the headrest supports me in that sweet spot on my neck, like someone is using the head-tilt method to open my throat for mouth-to-mouth resuscitation.

I've breathed in two bugs, that I can remember, over the 40 miles.  Now there's a stat that should be mentioned in bent reviews: miles per ingested bug.  The Silvio has a MPIB of 20 overall, for me.  The HP Velotechnik Street Machine Gte has a MPIB of about 325.  I don't know which is better.  It depends on the bug.

The main thing I appreciate about the S 2.0, from the first ride, is how much softer and smoother the ride is.  The new suspension design is fantastic.  (Just FYI, on Cruzbikes there is essentially no power loss from suspension.)  The bike here is set-up with Schwalbe Ultermo tires at 130 psi, which on the Silvio 1.5 could be jarring on rough roads.  The S 2.0 though is smooth, especially considering this is an aluminum frame.  Another context: when I say bad roads, I mean I rode it on cobble stones and paving stones for about 2 miles and then there are some areas with broken asphalt in Prospect Park right now that I'd take at about 20 mph.  You may not have roads like this.

It strikes me that the seats of most the bents I ride on a regular basis are fairly vertical.  I can't be bothered to measure them, but the seat angles are about 35 degrees or so.  Less than that and I need a head rest and I prefer to ride without one.  My beater Sofrider has an apx. 45 deg. seat angle.  My Street Machine touring bike is about 35.  With the Silvio 2.0, I feel so reclined (and comfortable) when I lean my head back on the non-optional headrest that I honestly sort of want to go to sleep...at the same time I'm the most aero and fast.  Resist the call of the nap!  (At least till you're off the road.)

On the speed front, the S 2.0 is extremely aero, so I'll simply say it's very fast.  I don't want to encourage people to ride like they are racing when they could be riding for pleasure.

Gotta go.  I have some bikes to build.

Have fun and stay healthy, and stop measuring your fun,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

Q: On a Cruzbike Quest, the black seat tube wiggles. A customer asks how to identify and fix the problem.

A customer writes:

On Tue, September 10, 2013 8:19 pm, Michael A______ wrote:
Hi Robert,
I am having trouble getting the seat-back to be held securely by the tube arrangement.  The black tube wiggles in the frame tube.  I have tightened the clasp as much as I think I can, but it still wiggles, with the net being the back is lower than I would prefer.
Any ideas?
Mike A____



Hi Mike,

The seat tube.  Indeed, this should not be loose.

Please check:

- Ring/quick release (QR) clamp is around the lower (frame section) of the seat tube, as opposed to being loose and floating on the upper (black) part of the seat tube.

- The ring/QR clamp is tight.

- Bolt in QR clamp is NOT broken.  (Excessive tightening force could have caused this to break.)

- Clamp has nothing interfering with its closing and tightening.  Check both ends: the clamp and the "end screw."  The water bottle cages might interfere with this in some positions, but it need not. There's a sweet spot where the clamp closes securely but there's no interference from the bottle cages.

- No looseness in the bolts at the top of the seat, which hold the seat and racks.

- Clamp is right side up (there is a ridge on the top side of the clamp).

- Clamp is oriented so that the closing part of the circular clamp is oriented with the cut-out in the frame, where the seat tube is inserted into the frame.

- Remove and reset the ring/clamp around the frame to make sure it's properly seated.

- Make sure the upper (black) part of the seat tube is securely inserted into the frame.

- The seat braces are properly oriented.  The seat braces connect the seat tube to the seat.  Generally, the braces should be somewhere between 180 degrees (vertical, running from the top of the seat tube up to the seat) to 90 degrees (with the seat braces running horizontally from the seat tube to the seat).  As you get to know the attachments here, you can experiment with this, even going so far as to turn the seat tube backwards in order to gain an extreme recline.  The main thing though is to ensure the seat tube is adequately seated into the frame to provide a secure connection there.

All best,
Robert

------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

A shout-out to Bike Box. A helpful German bike shop.

This looks to me like the arm of a Burley trailer,
attached to a mountain bike via Weber's hitch.

A shout-out to Bike Box, in Frittlingen, Germany for their help.  I'm trying to get a Weber hitch for a customer with a Scorpion fs 26 and a Burley Child Trailer.  They're being immensely helpful.  Burley doesn't (yet) sell this part in the USA.

The situation:
To attach a trailer to an HP Velotechnik trike, you need to use a special mounting bracket for the trike.  It is made by HP Velo.  From there, you need the hitch made by Weber.  (Weber also makes trailers, by the way.)  There are two parts to the Weber hitch: the bicycle (male) end, which attaches to the mounting bracket on the trike/bike, and the trailer (female) end, which attaches to the trailer arm.  HP Velotechnik makes the bracket and sells it with the bicycle (male) end.  For the end that attaches to the trailer arm, we're dependent on the trailer company (Burley).

As I write, Bike Box is helping us figure out which part, exactly, we need.  And you too can reap the benefit through the info. here.  In the future, maybe we can convince Burley USA to carry the part.  Maybe?

The part on the right attaches to the trailer.

You need the 23.5 mm version of this.

Here is the part (for as long as this link works):
"Weber Deichselanschluss ohne Kupplung für Kinderanhänger"
and "Umrüstset, 23.5 4-Kant für Burley"
Their article number is: 510
https://www.bikebox-shop.de/kinderanhaenger-fahrradanhaenger/croozer-kinderanhaenger-fahrradanhaeger/weber-deichselanschluss-ohne-kupplung-fuer-kinderanhaenger/a-510/

Under the product, where you see the text "Auswahl," this is a drop-down list box.  Click it to select the correct size.

- If the arm of the trailer is square, as for the Burley, you need a 23.5 changing set (Umrüstset)
Select: "23.5 4-Kant für Burley"

- If the arm is round you need a 27.5 (Umrüstset)

When you use the site, if you don't speak German, use Google's translate feature and it'll all make more sense.


Have fun and stay well,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

To the Mayor of Toronto from Taylor Flook.

To the Mayor of Toronto from Taylor Flook.  But this could have been written to many other mayors.


Taylor Flook
http://www.mediacoop.ca/blog/taylor-flook/18826

My Letter To Rob Ford, Mayor of Toronto

Dear Mayor Ford,

As the mayor of this city, you are charged with the safety and concern of all its people, not just the ones you like or identify with. I am a cyclist who has suffered an accident because there was no bike lane for me to ride in. Right after the accident, good people got out of their cars and helped me to the side of the road and stayed with me while we waited for the ambulance to arrive. I was quite shaken up and these perfect strangers showed me a world of compassion. The police that appeared on the scene deemed that neither they, nor myself were at fault for the incident, but that a bike lane would have avoided the whole thing....

Read the rest of it here.

Ride and advocate for safer cycling,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

Fairing on a Cruzbike. No, for the front; yes, for the rear. But wouldn't you rather have an aero helmet?

From a customer:

On Thu, September 12, 2013 10:10 am, James L______ wrote:
Robert and Maria
The ADEM headrest has been wonderful.
I am riding almost 100 miles a week to and from work
I want to go the next step and get a fairing to improve efficiency.
Any recommendations

Hi James,

Your weekly mileage is fantastic!  Great job!


Fairing on a Cruzbike.

Fairing: front

I advise NOT using a front fairing on a Cruzbike.  (Front fairings work better on traditional, non-Cruzbike recumbents and trikes.)

Although I've read a few posts and have seen one photo on-line of people using front fairings on their Cruzbikes, I believe a front fairing is dangerous on a Cruzbike for two reasons: 1) front fairings are heavy and that weight is likely to negatively effect steering; and 2) front fairing are sail-like and they catch wind from your back, therefore wind gusts will cause the front wheel to turn in unexpected ways on a Cruzbike.

I'd also mention that, generally speaking, small front fairings -- which would impact steering less -- give very little aerodynamic benefit (a customer and I once did a series of tests to measure it).  The main benefit of the small front fairing is to keep your feet warm during the winter.  (And they do this well.)

Large front fairings (like the one from HP Velotechnik) -- which would impact steering more -- help keep you drier in the rain and warm in the winter (and for this, they are GREAT), and will give more aerodynamic benefit than a small fairing, but I haven't measured this.  At any rate, it's hardly worth the downside (on a Cruzbike).

So, I don't recommend a front fairing on a Cruzbike.  However, you may be able to find posts on the Cruzbike forums of riders using a front fairing on a CB with success.  Also, while there have been rumors that John Tolhurst, the Cruzbike designer, once toyed with designs for a front fairing, it hasn't been introduced.

Instead of using a front fairing, I suggest you experiment with a steeper recline of the seat.  This will give a significant and comparatively safe aerodynamic advantage.



Fairing: rear

A REAR fairing (a.k.a., tail box, tail sock, etc.) gives significant aerodynamic advantage without as much effect on steering.  (My customer and I measured this as well.)  TerraCycle sells a "Tail Sok" but you're on your own in terms of figuring out how to attach it to a Quest (or any other Cruzbike).  If you figure it out, please tell me, because I like the TC Tail Sok!
http://t-cycle.com/tailsoks-c-10/?zenid=agq74v3s2s8enu193ef9pu8u85



An inexpensive and practical alternative to the rear fairing is an aerodynamic bag on the seat back or rack, such as those from Radical Design or Ortlieb.  This doesn't give as much benefit as a rear fairing, but I've measured a benefit.



The easiest and cheapest way to improve your aerodynamics is with a time trial aerodynamic helmet which you've bought on sale.
http://www.racycles.com/apparel/performance-gear/helmets-aero



In a conversation, Maria Parker recommended using more aerodynamic clothing, such as a lycra race kit (a.k.a., roadie clothing, spandex, etc.).



I believe an aerodynamic wheelset helps a lot, but these can be expensive.



On that note, another inexpensive option is to look at the tires you're using.  Schwalbe makes excellent race tires, that are also durable, and are available in 26" sizes.  This isn't to improve aerodynamics but to decrease rolling resistance.
http://www.schwalbetires.com/



If there's a reader out there who has had a different experience, or would like to share a solution they have tested with great success, please post a note.



All best,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

Where NY mayoral candidates stand regarding bicycling

This just in from Noah Budnick, Deputy Director of Transportation Alternatives.  I'm just going to cut and paste it because I can add no value other than to re-publish it.

Wait.  Before I get there, this blog endorses di Blasio for mayor, as the candidate who speaks the most pleasing words in favor of bicycling in New York City.



Dear [me/you],

Loud and clear, your message hit candidates' ears: You bike.  You walk.  You vote.

And boy did those candidates respond.

You and 4,000 New Yorkers demanded an on-the-record response from New York City's candidates for mayor and City Council.  Check out the candidates' responses before tomorrow's Primary Election with
Transporation Alternatives' Voter FAQ. On this page, you'll also find everything you need to know to be ready to vote.

http://my.transalt.org/site/R?i=AQ7reYsvKLCVblYhORjSvQ

Tomorrow is your chance to vote in New York City's most important election in more than a decade -- it's even more important than the General Election.

After tomorrow, most City Council elections are practically over. There are 51 New York City Council seats up for election. In two-thirds of the races, only Democrats are running. The remaining third of contests are expected to see clear winners after the Primary Election tomorrow, dictating the General Election outcome as well. Do you know everything you need to vote tomorrow?

http://my.transalt.org/site/R?i=N8PRO8CP412bdu-Oii1PBg

Check out how the candidates for mayor and City Council responded to questions about bicycling and walking.  Learn if you're registered to vote.  Find your polling place.  And find out how to register to vote. Everything you need is right here.

http://my.transalt.org/site/R?i=b6gxE5zupMKvRKp9LmORxw

See you at the polls tomorrow!

Sincerely,

Noah Budnick
Deputy Director
Transportation Alternatives
Your advocate for Biking, Walking and Public Transit
www.transalt.org

Have fun and stay healthy,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

Cyclists getting attacked and robbed, once again. (Sept. 2013)

Cyclists are being clothes-lined and robbed in Riverside Park this week
(from New York Magazine)

Bicyclists: Watch Out for Riverside Park Tripwires

By Adam Martin (New York Magazine)

In a rather startling series of robberies in Riverside Park, thieves have apparently used a tripwire to knock down bicyclists and rob them. But the tripwire trap has a tell: A rope lying across the bike path that thieves pull taught in order to clothesline the rider. Police think the same gang also robbed a bicyclist by simply ambushing him from behind some bushes. So if you see any misplaced bits of rope, or suspicious shrubbery, probably best to avoid them.

Cyclists are one of the more vulnerable crime targets in the city.  In the city, one travels at speeds and distances similar to a car, so it's tempting (and easy) to ride into shady neighborhoods at all times of the day and night where one might normally never walk but might normally drive or bike.  (A great example are the areas around the Brooklyn Navy Yard, including the area east of the Manhattan Bridge's Bklyn anchorage where there's a beautiful bike path on a road in the midst of projects.)  A cyclist is frequently carrying -- riding -- in one's possession, and in plain sight, something of obviously high value -- their bike.  And riders take predictable routes, which makes them predictable prey and an easy target to ambush: it's a bike lane, it's only a matter of time before a mark comes along; a pedestrian might simply stay away from the neighborhood, or change directions or the side of the street they're on if they see bad guys up ahead, but a cyclist may be forced to stay on the road, or on a particular side of the road, or may not be able to turn around so quickly, or may have no other route besides "straight ahead." In a car, you can just drive through, assuming the punks haven't hidden an IED along the road.

Then there's the demographic of cyclists: they're soft, easy, unarmed targets.  They are usually hippies, or yuppies, hard-working ordinary people, practical, just trying to get to work, or the dentist, or home, or the whatever.  And they're unlikely to be armed: what cyclist is going to carry the weight of a weapon, or a crow bar, or a big f*ing stick, or a knife and risk being poked (or shot) by it as you ride?  And what, you're going to get off your bike, your best means of quickly running away, and try and use a weapon?  Drive-by shootings I've heard of; bicycling-by shootings sounds like something only Conan O'Brien could stage.

For decades, and probably centuries, there are stories of punks swinging bats and sticks at cyclists and knocking them off their bikes, throwing rocks (and food and water balloons and bottles and spit), spreading tacks on bike paths, jumping cyclists at red lights, etc.  This week, we have assholes laying down a "trip wire" that they pull up to neck level when the cyclist comes close, injuring the cyclist, and then robbing them, presumably of their bike, but maybe of their clothes as well.  How very 15th century.

So this is pretty fucked up and disheartening.  It's just one more thing we deal with as city cyclists.  If it's not pedestrians walking on bike paths or into the paths of bikes; or debris in bike lanes; or motorists driving distracted, drunk, drugged, disconcerted, half-dead or generally driving dangerously; and if it's not other cyclists ignoring traffic laws and generally riding like idiots; then it's street punks trying to fill the vacuum in their hearts by injuring people, why not a cyclist.  There are days I really get tired of this.  I'm just trying to get where I'm trying to go.

Look out for random ropes and strings along the ground.  Look out when riding by bushes near the side of the path.  Look out for people milling about or who seem like they may be the "look outs" for a gang.

What is city hall and law enforcement doing about this?  Are our city council members interested in or informed about crimes against cyclists and their seriousness?  Do the police have strategies for fighting these crimes?  And where's Batman?  Generally, I've seen nothing to make me believe city government is on the case, but I'd like to be wrong about that.

And I'm rather disappointed that even the New York Mag article makes it sound softer than it really is.  They call it a trip wire.  It's not a trip wire.  It's a "clothes line," a rope pulled up to body or neck level.  Even if it's simply up to the level of the bike wheels, it will result in the cyclist being thrown in an endo, skull first over his/her handlebars.  This can cripple or kill a person, not merely trip them and cause a broken wrist.  What, if NY Mag publishes something alarmist about crimes against cyclists, people will stop looking at the ads on their web site?

(Did I swear here?  If so, I beg your pardon.  But I think swearing may be appropriate when an innocent person's neck is on the line.)

What plans do the mayoral candidates have to decrease crimes against cyclists?  I haven't heard a position on this -- or on bicycling -- from any of them.  No surprise.  As a voting block, we don't have a check book, so, should they care what we think?  I think they should.

So, what can you do to help?  Don't just sit there, don't just ride.  Get involved in the political machinations of our society.  Tell your political representatives what you think.  Write your council members, write those who are running for city council in your district, write those who are running for mayor.  Apply to serve on your community board.  Join Transportation Alternatives and/or Times Up and donate some volunteer hours.  Run for City Council.

How to do it?  Your first step is to click here:
http://transalt.org/getinvolved/neighborhood

Stay safe and get involved in bicycling advocacy,
Robert
------------
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

In the shop now...Zinc yellow Street Machine Gte

What a pretty bike we've got here.  This is for a rider who is preparing for a cross-continent tour in the USA.  Bike?  Street Machine Gte from HP Velotechnik, what else.  Accept no substitutes for long haul touring.  Color?  Custom zinc yellow.  Options?  Include but not limited to: DT Swiss air shock, MEKS carbon fiber suspension fork with extra hard spring, Avid BB7 disk brakes, Shimano XT drivetrain, Truvativ Elita crankset, SON dynohub, 80 LUX Edelux headlight, B&M tail light, rear rack, Radical Design/Moonbiker panniers, kickstand, Marathon Plus tires, water bottle set....

What a very nice bike.  It'll be completed tomorrow.

A few weeks later, the customer wrote me:

"I wanted to send you a quick update. I'm riding my Street Machine about 4 days a week at this point and finding myself getting faster and stronger as the weeks fly by. I've put on about 300 miles so far and the bike is such a pleasure to ride. I'd be interested in doing an over night trip soon....so if you know of any that I should be considering, let me know. I love the bike and look forward to my x-country trip in May 2015! Thanks for your all you did and do!"

Have fun and stay healthy,
Robert
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Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson

Radical Design bags and panniers for Cruzbike recumbent bikes, no rack required

A Radical Design customer in England shows how he attaches Banana Racers on a Vendetta. (I'd really love to credit this guy or gal.)

To carry luggage on a Cruzbike, I strongly recommend the bags made by Radical Design ("RD") (sold in the USA by New York City Recumbent Supply) because they are lightweight, high quality and many models don't require racks.

RD bags are also an inexpensive solution because the rider needs only buy the pannier bags and not a rack plus bags. That quality also lowers the overall weight of the luggage system (bags alone are lighter than bags plus rack).  RD bags may be layered for maximum carrying capacity because they're made of flexible Cordura(R) nylon and many of the bags don't require racks.

Radical Design bags work well on Cruzbikes but it's not always obvious how to mount them to the bike. I maintain this post as a running entry, updating it when I have new information.  Be sure to check back from time to time.

Also, this blog post has good information about attaching panniers to a Quest. Similar strategies apply for the Silvio and Vendetta.

Cruzbike Quest 20 with Radical Design Banana Racer below seat

and Solo Aero on back of seat, totaling 37 liters of carrying capacity.

Radical Design bags for Cruzbikes

Note: Solo Racer in both wide and narrow sizes fit equally well, though imperfectly, at top of seat on Sofrider, Quests and Silvio. The wide fits outside the seat cushion and may sag a bit. The narrow fits under the seat cushion and rides a bit high. Both work.

Solo Aero

Solo Aero wide (12 liters capacity).  5 colors available.

Requires removal of the Quest 20 or 26's rack.
"Wide" and "narrow" both have 12 liters capacity.

https://www.radicaldesign.nl/en/products/recumbent-bags/rear-bags/solo-aero

Universal Racer

Universal Racer (10 liters capacity). 5 colors available.

Solo Racer works too (size wide for bottom of seat, size narrow for top of seat)."Wide," "narrow" and "universal" all have 10 liters capacity.

https://www.radicaldesign.nl/en/products/recumbent-bags/rear-bags/universal-racer

Banana Racer

Banana Racer (25 liters capacity). 5 colors available.

https://www.radicaldesign.nl/en/products/recumbent-bags/side-panniers/banana-racer

Which bags fit which Cruzbikes

Quest 26
Solo Aero, wide, at top of seat. (Rack needs to be removed and rear wheel comes close depending on seat angle.)
Solo Racer, narrow, at top of seat.
Solo Racer, wide, at top and bottom of seat.
Universal Racer, anywhere on seat.
Banana Racer (25 liter)

Silvio 2.0 and 1.5

Solo Racer, narrow, at top of seat, under seat cushion.

Solo Racer, wide: fits both at top of seat over seat cushion and at base of seat, at the seat pan, as a tiny rack-free under-seat pannier.
Universal Racer
Banana Racer
Notes:
Solo Aero narrow fits at top of seat, but comes very close to the wheel, especially if heavily loaded.

Vendetta
Universal Racer

Banana Racer (25 liter)
Banana Small (40 liter)

Banana Medium (55 liter)

Sofrider (bike out of production)
Solo Aero, wide, at top of seat.

Solo Racer, narrow, at top of seat.
Solo Racer, wide, at top and bottom of seat.
Universal Racer, anywhere on seat.
Banana Racer (25 liter)
Banana Small (40 liter)
Banana Medium (55 liter)

Quest 20 (bike out of production)
Solo Aero, wide, at top of seat. (Rack needs to be removed.)

Solo Racer, narrow, at top of seat.
Solo Racer, wide, at top and bottom of seat.
Universal Racer, anywhere on seat.
Banana Racer (25 liter)

Rider photos

More photos from our friend in England. Additional straps were added and threaded above and below the seat pan on this Vendetta with Banana Racers. Clever. Provides very secure attachment.

RD bags on a Vendetta

Same Vendetta

More Vendetta

Have bags, will travel, will ship,
Robert
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Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2013 Robert Matson